Siamo nel forno – great pizza

Many foreigners living in Argentina will at some point complain about Argentinian pizza. And I am one of them. I LOVE a nice Italian pizza so I am not a fan of most pizzas here – they have thick, doughy crust, way too much cheese, and are generally just soggy and not very interesting. There are plenty of other good things to eat here, so it really isn’t too much of a problem, but I had been wanting to check out Siamo nel forno in Palermo Hollywood (Costa Rica 5886) and I finally did! (Check out the blog Pick Up the Fork and its review of the place, and the loooong comment section where people discuss Argentine pizza – at least I am not that bad.)

aperol

Siamo nel forno means “we are in the oven” and basically a translation of the Argentine expression “Estamos en el horno”, “we’re in trouble.” People use it ALL the time so I think the name is really cute. And YES the pizza was great! Actually, I loved the place as soon as I walked in and saw people drinking Spritz Aperol, one of my favorite drinks. The pizza was delicious – thin crust with fluffy bubbly edges, nice cheese, great flavors. Hooray! (Sorry for the bad photo of a half eaten pizza but I was busy devouring it!)

pizza

Posted in Buenos Aires, Restaurants | 2 Comments

March Madness

Wow, what a month! March has flown by and been extremely busy. In February we had a little bit of downtime because of all the rain, but March has been all sunshine and a full house from beginning to end. I call it a good week if I work less than 70 hours, and finishing at 20:00 is a real treat! Today I had half a day off, which really meant 4.5 hours off – from 10 to 14:30 I stayed at home reading, cleaning, doing my nails and then doing nothing – ah! I had no day off last week (going back and fourth to BsAs for a doctor’s appointment really doesn’t count) and I won’t really have one this week either, so those hours were bliss. (If I have one more person tell me that I must be so much more relaxed working here than at the IDB, I might strangle them!)

There were two weddings this month, both of which took most or all of the hotel, which meant two or three intense days. But both groups were really nice luckily! Then there were two holiday weekends (Carnaval and Día de la Memoria, which was today), which means lots of people, and a variety of groups on weekdays and weekends alike. My favorite group came from Switzerland and was part of a real estate association book club. Interesting combo, but great people! We also had lots of polo to catch up on after the rains in February. Puh!

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Me da bronca que…

I guess I have to admit that I am pretty easily annoyed… And I will often start a sentence with “Lo que me da bronca es que…” or, “What really annoys me is…”. Here are a few of the things on my grouchy list:

  • Argentine drivers. Sorry guys, I will lump you all into one big group of annoying drivers with no compassion for your fellow man. Today was the end of a holiday weekend so there was lots of traffic on the roads around Cañuelas. I was not going on the highway, but nobody seemed to want to let me cross, even though they were all snailing along to get on the ramp and could surely let me go through. I know I have written about this before but it really, really gets to me!
  • Travel agencies. Agency bookings only constitute about 15% of our total bookings, of course they are important, and I understand why they exist, but sometimes they really annoy me. With hotels, the agency usually gets 20% commission. Fair enough, since they can reach people we may not be able to reach. (In most cases, this means 10% to the agency in Argentina and 10% to the agency in the sending country.) You’d think that this percentage would be enough, but some agencies add on a lot more on top of that. And the problem with that is that it makes our product seem much more expensive than it really is. Of course I think we offer something wonderful, but I think the actual price is the right price, and if people are paying much more, they might think “Is this all I am getting?” One example: Our Country Day is priced at USD 85 per person – this gets you a full day at the estancia with a big asado, afternoon tea, unlimited water and softdrinks, horseback riding, bikes, pool, and access to all polo games. Not a bad deal – but I have heard of agencies charging as much as USD 150 for this, and that is a lot! I also prefer the direct contact with the guests before they come – I always feel much better prepared, their expectations are managed correctly, and there are fewer surprises.
  • People who tell me “You have lost weight. It suits you.” WTF? First of all, I only lost a couple of kilos from not eating meat anymore, and secondly, my previous weight was totally fine and what I have been most of my adult life. Reminds me of how at the IDB, random women I did not know would, in the bathroom, tell me I had lost weight and looked good. So weird! Personally I think complementing someone’s weight loss is only OK if you know they were actively trying to lose weight.
  • The list is probably much longer but it feels pretty good having said all of this! 🙂
Posted in Personal | 3 Comments

La argentina en Noruega

In some previous posts I wrote about Argentinos en Noruega and how there is not a whole lot of information about Norway for people from Argentina, in any language. I mentioned a blog written by an Argentinian woman in Norway, but it is no longer active. Anyway, just a day or two ago I got a comment on my blog from a women from here who has spent quite a bit of time in Norway, and who is learning Norwegian! So I have officially found my counterpart, la agentina en Noruega. Her name is Aymará and her blog is El diario de Aymará. Check it out! It is in Spanish. I especially enjoyed her post about learning Norwegian. She has a great attitude about it and it is not easy, especially since most people speak English and it is quite popular to learn Spanish right now, so there are probably people who want to practice their Spanish with.

We have already decided that we will do cross posts on our respective countries!

Posted in Argentina en Noruega, Argentina i Norge, Norsk i Argentina, Norway in Argentina, Personal | 6 Comments

Meatless Months

I wanted to write a little update on my Meatless Monday post, which I wrote after two meat free weeks in late January/early February. It has been surprisingly easy to keep going, I have mainly had meat (usually chicken) once a week, except once when I went two weeks without eating any. The non-sugar thing has been harder, but I have pretty good at that too (although a returning Belgian guest brought me some beautiful chocolates from Antwerp and I couldn’t resist eating some of them.) I have not seen any amazing increase in energy levels or the best skin of my life, but I did drop 2-3 kilos without trying at all; it was not planned but I am happy with it. I am having lots of salads, lots of avocados, a good amount of lentils, beans and chick peas/garbanzos, whole grain bread (home made and store bought, even though the one from the store really isn’t that great), some white bread, grilled and roasted vegetables, some pasta and risotto, fruits… It is hard not to eat any of the desserts when I spend 6 days a week in a hotel, but I am doing good!

It is harder when I have my day off and go to the city, so that is usually where I will have my weekly chicken, although many places have a variety of non-meat option. I stumbled upon a vegetarian restaurant in Villa Crespo with a friend, Almacen Purista, which was a nice find.

I definitely don’t consider myself vegetarian, but it has been a really good experience to cut down on meat, diary and eggs and I will continue it for as long as I am comfortable with it.

Photo from the Almacen Purista website

Posted in Buenos Aires, Hotel, Restaurants | 1 Comment

Mauro the cat

I am backdating this post, as Mauro, the cool cat on the block, died Friday February 28. He got sick probably from something he ate, and I took him to the vet, but he died in the morning anyway. He was such a cute and fun cat! He made me realize something interesting about cats: it seems they actually aspire to be inside cats.  (I guess that is what all these years of domestication do.) He always lived outside or in the barn, but would do anything to come inside, and then just be super happy and enjoy the inside comforts.

Life and death is more normal in the country side, now both my favorite dog and second-favorite cat have died in just a few months. I guess that is natural. Bye Mauro, you were a good cat!

cats

Posted in Campo, Personal | 5 Comments

Norge og jøder, og viktigheten av jødiske stemmer i offentligheten

This post is in Norwegian, sorry! I might translate it at some point. Nå skal jeg skrive om noe som jeg ikke vet så mye om, og som samtidig er et ganske følsomt tema. Dette kan bli interessant! Nemlig jøder i Norge og ikke-jødiske nordmenns forhold til den lille jødiske minoriteten. Jeg er selv en typisk ”kulturell kristen” nordmann, oppvokst i statskirken og med gode minner fra ungdomsårene i TenSing. Så hvorfor er jeg interessert i jødisk liv i Norge?

Jeg tror min første introduksjon til jødedommen kom gjennom bøkene til Chaim Potok, spesielt “Jeg er Asher Lev” og “Davitas harpe” som jeg lånte av min bibliofile tante. Jeg var fascinert over denne verdenen som var bade ny og spennende. På skolen lærte vi om jødedommen i religionsundervisningen, men det var ingen dyptpløyende gjennomgang. I VG3 skrev vi særoppgave om forskjellige religioner, men så vidt jeg husker var det bare et par medelever som besøkte og skrev om det Mosaiske Trossamfunn. Frem til jeg var 16 eller 17 år gammel tror jeg faktisk ikke jeg kjente en eneste jøde. Da kom en palestiner og en jødisk israeler på ukelangt besøk til skolen min og jeg og noen andre venninner inviterte dem hjem på laksemiddag. (Vi visste i det minste at begge religionene hadde et forbud mot svinekjøtt!) Vi snakket livlig om bosetninger og hadde en hyggelig kveld.

Som student flyttet jeg til USA og plutselig var det å være jøde ganske normalt, selv i sørstatene hadde de fleste en viss kunnskap om jødisk kultur og religion, og i mine fire år i Georgia så og hørte jeg lite antisemittisme. Det kan selvfølgelig ha gått meg hus forbi, eller at det rett og slett bleknet i forhold til den historiske og pågående rasismen i den delen av USA. (Fun fact: University of Georgia, delstatens største universitet, har ca. 2000 jødiske studenter, noe som utgjør 5% av studentmassen. Mer enn i hele Norge!)

I mine 11 år i USA lærte jeg masse om jødisk liv og kultur, både gjennom venner og gjennom media, og fikk et veldig positivt inntrykk både av det jødisk-amerikanske samfunnet og av religionsrelasjoner generelt i USA – forholdet mellom jøder og muslimer der virker for eksempel milevis foran det vi ser i Europa. Religionsfrihet er veldig viktig i USA og jøder og muslimer står for eksempel sammen når det gjelder ønsket om å kunne bruke synlige religiøse symboler, enten det er hijab eller kippah, og sammen om det å være en minoritet. Noe av grunnen kan selvfølgelig være at det er såpass mange jøder i USA, i hvertfall i forhold til land som Norge. Jødiske amerikanere er trygge på sin identitet og plass i samfunnet og omtales ofte i positive ordelag som en gruppe med fokus på utdanning, familie og samfunnstjeneste – og humor.  Jødiske grupperinger sto for eksempel skulder ved skulder med afroamerikanere på 60-tallet og står ofte i bresjen for ”social justice”-initiativer.

For halvannet år siden flyttet jeg fra Washington, DC til Buenos Aires, Argentina – som tilfeldigvis har Latin-Amerikas største jødiske samfunn, med over 200,000 jøder. (Fun fact: Argentina har verdens eneste kosher McDonalds utenfor Israel.) Dette er mindre enn tidligere, da mange forlot landet etter attentatene på 90-tallet og den økonomiske krisen i 2001. Jeg ser mange likheter mellom jøder i Argentina og i USA – flertallet er askenasiske, og gruppen har høy deltakelse i politikk, veldedighet, business, kunst og kultur (for noen fantastiske filmer: filmregissør Daniel Burman). Mange er assimilerte, mens den ortodokse befolkningen vokser raskt begge steder.

Både i Argentina og i USA har jeg alltid blitt slått av at det å være jøde er helt naturlig. I Norge, derimot, får jeg følelsen av at det å være jøde er, for de fleste, noe ganske rart og veldig annerledes. Mange steder i USA, og i Buenos Aires, er det helt vanlig å ha en jødisk kamerat, eller en venninne som tar fri på Yom Kippur, eller en kollega som ikke blander melk og kjøtt. Begge steder har jeg blitt invitert av venner til Pesach-sedere og Rosh Hashana-feiringer, eller jødiske bryllup (dansing mellom rettene = genialt!) og i USA er det helt vanlig, selv utenfor byene på øst- og vestkyst, å ha generell kunnskap om jødiske tradisjoner. Jeg husker godt da jeg ble kjent med en norsk historiker med norsk jødisk liv som felt og hun var overrasket over hvor mye jeg visste om jødisk religion og kultur – og det var jo stort sett bare generell kunnskap jeg hadde fått av å bo i USA og ha noen jødiske venner.

Derfor synes jeg det har vært trist å lese om hvor mye fordommer som fortsatt finnes i Norge. (Eller fortsatt – kanskje det var bedre for 20-30 år siden?) Monica Csango og Nikolaj Kahn har begge hatt kronikker i Aftenposten om frykten for å være synlig jøde eller snakke om sin jødiske bakgrunn, og de nå mye publiserte undersøkelsene fra Holocaust-senteret viser at over en tiendedel av nordmenn har negative holdninger til jøder. Noe virker som gammel klassisk antisemittisme, mens noe forsvares som legitim kritikk av staten Israel. Det virker som om mange nordmenn er fullstendig uten evne til å skille mellom staten Israel og den enkelte jøde – ofte de samme som sier, rettmessig, at vi ikke bør sidestille hver enkelt muslim med saudiske myndigheter, for eksempel. (Heldigvis finnes det positive opplevelser også, som Michael Kohn skriver om her.)

Det er faktisk på Twitter at jeg endelig har fått høre flere norske jødiske stemmer, noe jeg tror er veldig bra – Suzanne Aabel (som også har blogg og nettopp skrev om Jødehat på stueveggen), Monica Csango, Nikolaj Kahn, Ervin Kohn (forstander i Det Mosaiske Trossamfunn), Leif Knutsen, med flere. Etter Monica Csangos kronikk i Aftenposten kommenterte andre norske jøder innlegget og minst en person lenket til et eget blogginnlegg med lignende erfaringer. Det er viktig at vi får høre om disse! Ja til kule norske jøder på Twitter! 🙂

Så hva vil jeg egentlig med dette lange innlegget? Som sagt, jeg synes den generelle kunnskapen om jøder er veldig liten i Norge, og jeg synes det er trist. Jødisk kultur og tradisjon er interessant for oss som tilhører majoriteten, som en del av vår kulturarv, og jeg synes at vi har et ansvar for å hjelpe å videreføre jødisk liv i Norge. Det er bare rundt 1500 jøder i Norge, så noe à la Antirasistisk Senters ”Tea Time” er kanskje ikke spesielt gjennomførbart, men noe burde vi da kunne gjøre. Mange nordmenn studerer eller jobber i utlandet i perioder, i land med flere jøder enn det vi har i Norge, og det er en fin sjanse til å lære. Det er også gode ressurser i Norge, for eksempel Jødisk Museum i Oslo, et lite og oversiktlig museum med både gripende historier fra 2. verdenskrig og generell informasjon om jødiske høytider og jødisk liv i Norge. Jeg synes for eksempel at den jevne nordmann bør vite bittelitt om Pesach, påskefeiringen, eller Yom Kippur, akkurat som jeg synes det er helt naturlig at vi har en viss kunnskap om den muslimske høytiden Eid eller forskjellen på sunni- og shiamuslimer.

Med mer kunnskap kan vi kanskje unngå noen av disse situasjonene hvor ordet ”jøde” blir brukt som skjellsord eller hvor norske jøder føler seg helt alene, eller føler at det eneste folk er interessert i er bosetninger og omskjæring. Selv ser jeg frem til en seder (påskemåltid) med jødiske og ikke-jødiske venner i Buenos Aires, og håper at andre nordmenn også kan få gleden av å være med på en jødisk høytid en gang. Jeg har bakt challah for amerikanske jødiske turister, og i dag overrasket jeg en jødisk-argentisk tourguide med å snakke litt hebraisk her på hotellet, noe jeg tror  var dagens høydepunkt for oss begge!

Posted in La noruega en Noruega, Personal | 22 Comments

Malvon – Yes, I love bread

malvon2

Here is another recommendation for delicious sandwiches and lunches: Malvon. They have two locations, in Palermo and Villa Crespo, I visited the latter, on Serrano 789. So much baked goodness! We went for lunch and I had the fish and chips special (there is a lunch of the day, as well as other dishes, sandwiches, etc.) and the fish was absolutely perfect. The chips were not chips, but crisps (potato chips) which was a little disappointing, but still good. The appetizer was good as well, and my friend’s dessert delicious – dulce de leche mousse with a brownie crust. They have a different menu for breakfast/lunch which I will certainly need to try sometime soon. Cute place, good service, great food.

malvon1

Lafinur 3275, Palermo and Serrano 789, Villa Crespo.

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Pain et Vin

This is a relatively new place in Palermo, run by a couple where she is a sommelier and he a master baker. The focus is all on the bread and it is GOOD! I recommend the BLT sandwich, or the quinoa salad. Yummy!

BLT

Gorriti 5132, Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
Tel: 011-4832-5654

Posted in Buenos Aires, Restaurants | 1 Comment

Meatless Monday (and Tuesday…)

verduelria4I have become a little turned off meat from the meat obsession here in Argentina, even though I was already eating very little meat, just a small piece here and there. On Friday I finished two meatless weeks, had some steak, and started again yesterday. I have the benefit of spending six days a week in a hotel that happens to have a long-term guest eating almost all plant-based, whole foods, so that means I have easy access to lentils stews and the like. So I will try to do another two weeks, and see how it goes! I have also  been trying to cut down on sugar, mainly in the form of choclate. To me, that is much harder than not eating meat!

Since early January I have been obsessed with avocado and tomato sandwiches on whole-grain bread, so that is my new staple breakfast. I think that for me, eating rich flavors like avocado, caramelized vegetables in the oven, and lentil stews make it easy to cut down or out meat, cheese etc. I am sure I will be back to eating some meat, and chocolate, but the chocolate I could definitely benefit from leaving for Saturday only (growing up in Norway, all candy was strictly for Saturday evening only.) Wish me luck!

Posted in Campo, Hotel, Personal, Restaurants, Veggies | 4 Comments