La Exposición Rural

1imagesYesterday I went to La Rural in Buenos Aires. “La Exposición Rural (in English: The Rural Exhibition), is an annual agricultural and livestock show held in the Palermo section of Buenos Aires, Argentina. The event is organised by La Sociedad Rural Argentina (in English: The Argentine Rural Society) and both the Exhibition and the Society are known locally as La Rural.” (Thank you, Wikipedia!) It is basically a huge, fancy agricultural show, and I was particularly struck by how nice and clean everything was. Then again, it was the first day and my friends assured me that it doesn’t smell like roses the last few days… We got to visit our neighbors from next doors, about 10 Angus cows, calves and bulls that are part of the exhibition. There were all sorts of cattle and livestock, horses, sheep, birds, rabbits, llamas… There were also beautiful pavilions representing the provinces of Argentina, lots of great food, and all sorts of handicrafts for sale. I didn’t have my camera so no photos unfortunately! But it was a really great show and a nice way to appreciate more of Argentina’s rural culture.

 

Posted in Buenos Aires, Campo | 2 Comments

Horse and me

DSC_1800chico

Posted in Campo, Personal | 2 Comments

Hotel Life

I always said that I would be very happy living in a hotel. A really nice one, that is. I love fancy hotels and especially the beautiful bathrooms and the big fluffy beds. Now, I don’t live in a hotel but I work in one, and spend a lot of time in it. After eight months in a business that was completely new to me, here are some of the perks and some of the not so great things about the life of a hotelier.

Good stuff:

  • Access to great food. Since I spend so much time here, I often eat here. When I first came, I was the guest hostess and ate lunch and dinner with the guests every day. Now, as the manager, I still do the hostess role regularly. Not all the time, but enough to be able to enjoy some of the delicious food we serve! Asados are of course a staple, but I also love the fish dishes, the quiches, the steaks, and all the different vegetables. (Who am I kidding, trying to not mention the desserts…)
  • Meeting amazing and interesting people. I have written about this before, that the vast majority of the people are really wonderful and with great attitudes. We are in the country side and therefore, things don’t always work 100%, so I love guests who are relaxed and easy going (although we always try to fix everything and get better.) One of my favorite guests is a fantastic piano player and while he didn’t know Les Miserables before, he could play each song perfectly from the sheet music and I was in heaven! (The musical Les Miserables is one of my favorite things in life.)
  • Making it all work. When things work, and people are happy, and the food is tasty, and the sun is shining, and everything goes off without a hitch, it is an amazing feeling. There is a lot of work that goes into making it all seem effortless, but when things work, it is the best.
  • Every day is different. Every day brings different challenges and experiences – one day we host a South African television production, the next day we have a full hotel, then a wedding, then lots of polo, then some quiet bird watching guests. Some days I do lots of finance and admin work, other days I ride with the guests or have a little time to sit in the sun with the dogs.

Not so great stuff:

  • Looong hours. Even though we almost always receive people during regular working hours, and rarely have to be here in the middle of the night, the hours are long. We are staffed from 7:00 to 22:30 usually, and there are quite a few days when I am here for 14 hours, which is just too much!
  • The feeling of always being on. Since I live on-site, even when I am at home I am always thinking about the hotel and of course people often call, since they can’t know that I am not working at that particular moment. We basically never have weekends off, and on our one day a week off, travel agencies and others will still call, since they of course work a regular week.
  • Having to be a jack of all trades. In a small hotel, the manager (that would be me) is in charge of everything, from booking and reception work, to maintenance to housekeeping to the kitchen to human resources to the garden to organizing the horserides to booking transfers. The cool thing is to see how it all works together, but of course the drawback is having to be in a million things at once. I don’t do the maintenance myself, but I have to be on top of it, as with so many other things.

So far, so good – it has been an amazing experience so far and it is definitely an industry I feel at home in. It is basically perfect for a chatty, extroverted traveler with a love for languages!

Here a picture of me working, back in January. I miss summer!

IMG_3250tiny

Posted in Hotel, Personal | 1 Comment

Early morning

IMG_0788resizedIMG_0787resizedIMG_0791resized

Posted in Campo | 2 Comments

Ocho meses! Eight months in Argentina

I like symmetry so I would have preferred to write posts on my 3, 6 and 9  month “anniversaries”, but I’ll settle for five (read about it here) and eight. I am celebrating my eight months in Argentina with a self-diagnosed sinus infection and a lovely fever. So if this seems incoherent, well, it’s because it is. I rarely get a fever and I rarely get colds but have been knocked out all week. After a third night of poor sleep because of intense head and sinus pain, I decided to take advantage of something that I am completely against: the possibility to buy antibiotics without a prescription. I googled “best antibiotic for sinus infection”, google told me Amoxicillin, 500mg twice a day for ten days, and I simply asked my co-worker to pick some up. Voila! Then I called my mom and sister to get their health care approval and swallowed the first pill.

I am too lazy/out of it to show sources, but we all know that resistance to antibiotics is a big problem, including in Latin America, and that lax laws on how to obtain said antibiotics contribute to this problem. People end up taking them when they don’t have an infection, or only buy a few pills, or not finish a prescribed course, or pop a few pills they have left over from a previous illness. Not good! Yet, I knew that if I went to the doctor they would not take any tests or do any cultures, so I decided to self-diagnose and self-medicate. Hope I did the right thing!

So, eight months. I have yet to do the things I wrote in March that I would do, like traveling. I have now been here for a looong time and not seen anything apart from Cañuelas and Buenos Aires! Not good. But I do know the city much better, and love exploring new parts of it. I am a much better driver now, and can even drive in the city. I have more friends, including a nice group of friends that I do slightly more intellectual things with, like seeing foreign films, going to museums and discussing politics, when I need a break from the countryside. We’ve had some lovely people in the hotel, including a fantastic group from Air France/KLM that took the whole hotel for a few days earlier in the month.

I still need to keep up with the news better. Yes, I read the news online and enjoy reading them on paper with a breakfast of medialunas in a nice cafe, but I want to really be on top of what is happening – although it is not easy here! I would like to write more about politics and economics, not just snapshots of food.

The peso has weakened considerably since I came, both on the official and black markets. The official rate has gone from 4.7 til 5.4 and the black market or blue dollar from 6 to 10 and down to 8 or so. You notice the inflation in constant price increases.

I have become great at taking the bus around Buenos Aires – the bus system is vast and cheap and a wonderful way to move around. Very subsidized still, and the mayor’s effort at rising the prices are always met with vehement opposition from the president.

Oh well, this was quite the mix of stuff but I will write something more coherent when I feel better!

Posted in Buenos Aires, Campo, Personal, Politics | 3 Comments

Dollars, dollars, dollars

Economics is always an interesting topic of discussion and something that surrounds us no matter where we are. “The economy” is right up there with “the weather.” But while this is true in countries that are stable economically, it is even more true in unstable economies, such as Argentina. (I try not to use words like “fascinating” to describe the situation, because to Argentineans, it is not fascinating or funny – it is dead serious and the economic policies are making people’s lives more difficult. While I live here now, I am still an outsider and I can leave whenever I want, get a job in stable Norway and I recognize that privilege. With that disclaimer – it is kind of fascinating… How, oh how, can the government make so many bad decisions??)

Under both of President Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner’s terms she has shown to be great at following text book examples of what not to do. I have written about the currency controls earlier, which naturally has led to a large black market for dollars, the so-called blue dollar. In May, it reached its highest value ever, at over 10 pesos to the dollar, which was close to double that of the official exchange rate.

The currency control/black market issue is quite easy to understand. What is not so easy, though, is Kirchner’s latest plan to get more dollars back into the economy by having citizens bring “hidden” dollars into the economy. I will let The Economist explain it:

The scheme, referred to locally as the “laundering law”, invites those with undeclared dollars to invest in property and the energy industry without facing penalties for their previous financial chicanery. The government believes that Argentines have about $160 billion tucked under their mattresses or hidden away in foreign bank accounts. That is about four times the value of Argentina’s foreign currency reserves.

Under the plan, citizens can trade their dollars for two financial instruments: a dollar-denominated bond for investments in Argentina’s energy sector, and a dollar-backed certificate valid for property transactions, known as a CEDIN. Whereas the energy bonds will not launch until July 17th, the CEDINs made their entrance on July 1st.

In exchange for their surrendered dollars, investors will be awarded a certificate of equal nominal value which must be spent on buying or renovating a house, business premises or land. The recipient of the CEDIN may then sell the certificate or cash it in for real dollars at the Central Bank.

Economists have little faith that this new measure will bring in dollars, and after two days of operation, no certificates have been purchased. Personally, I will keep my dollars where I have them now – in a US bank and in my closet.

Posted in Politics | 2 Comments

The Twitter President

Argentina’s president Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner is a very active head of state – on Twitter. Its short, direct format seems to appeal to her, what should I say, erratic personality. She uses it to promote herself, criticize her opponents, and even publicize a letter she wrote to the Pope to congratulate him on the Day of the Pope. (Kirchner has embraced the former Cardinal Jorge Brogoglio now that he is Pope Francis, even though their relations were always tense before.) Check out the letter here on The Bubble, translation and all.

She really is a trainwreck, it is hard not to look…

Posted in Politics | 2 Comments

Coverage of Argentina in Norway

I debated writing this in Norwegian but I find the topic interesting – how much news about Argentina do people in Norway get? I would assume the situation is similar in other northern European countries.

A quick search in Aftenposten, Norway’s most serious newspaper (supposedly), did not give a lot. In June, their only actual news story on Argentina (and not something that just referenced Argentina in passing), was the train accident on June 13.

In May, there was a short note about a very interesting and disturbing topic – Iran-backed terrorism in Argentina. Israel’s embassy in Argentina was bombed and 29 people killed in 1992. Two years later, 85 people were killed in the bombing of the AMIA, the Jewish mutual aid society. An Iranian-backed organization took responsibility for the 1992 bombing and there is strong evidence that Iran backed the second bombing as well. The story of the investigations into the AMIA attack is strange and involves corruption and ineptitude, and investigations are going on to this day, especially after Argentina signed an MoU with Iran to establish a truth commission to investigate the attack. Needless to say, there is a lot of doubt to what kind of “truth” will come out of this… More here.

April saw a couple of articles on then Princess, now Queen, Máxima of Holland, plus a short note about the horrible flood in La Plata, while March was the month of the new Pope Francis and the referendum on the Falkland Islands. Sorry Kirchner, 99.9% of the islanders wanted to remain British. And one article that I really liked: Children’s author ISOL won the Astrid Lindgren Memorial Award, the biggest award for children’s books in the world. Her “Tener un patito es útil” is one of the coolest baby books I have ever seen.

And that was really about it for articles about Argentina in Aftenposten in 2013…

Posted in Norway in Argentina, Politics | Leave a comment

South African Television visits Puesto Viejo!

On a sunny June Friday, 23 crew and participants from a South African reality show came to shoot at the club. Here you see Darío and Luis all gauchoed up! As part of the competition, the participants had to prepare mate and throw the boleadoras.

IMG_0793resized

Posted in Campo, Hotel | Leave a comment

Nordmenn i Argentina – oppdatering

Etter snart 8 måneder i Argentina tenkte jeg jeg skulle skrive litt om meg som norsk i Argentina. Jeg har faktisk kommet i kontakt med noen nordmenn gjennom bloggen (hei Leif!) og jeg har også blitt kontaktet av argentinere i Norge og argentinere her som vil reise til Norge, studerer norsk, osv.

Utenom bloggen har jeg også blitt kjent med noen, blant annet med Caroline som er hotelleier i Buenos Aires og som ble intervjuet av samme journalist som meg i desember. På 17. mai var jeg på ambassaden og der ble jeg kjent med Julie, som viste seg å spille polo! Vi startet kjapt Norges kvinnelige poloklubb og hun kom hit til Puesto Viejo i en uke! Hun er mye yngre enn meg men flink til å ri, god i polo og en veldig hyggelig person. Og det viste seg at vi vokste opp sånn cirka fem minutter fra hverandre. Yay lille Norge! Jeg traff også sekretaeren i norsk-argentinsk handelskammer som jeg hadde brevvekslet litt med tidligere.

19. mai var jeg på et 17. mai-arrangement i den svenske kirken (den er opprinnelig svensk men en gang i måneden er den norsk og ellers er den også litt sånn pan-skandinavisk.) Der så jeg igjen noen kjente og fikk treffe hyggelige argentinere som går på norskkurs! Stakkars, de folte at ingen kunne forstå hvorfor de ville laere norsk! Det interessante var at de fleste hadde begynt på kurset fordi de liker norsk musikk. Jommen! Jeg var imponert.

Vi har hatt norske gjester på hotellet, både på dagstur og på overnatting, og det er alltid like hyggelig.

Posted in Norsk i Argentina, Norway in Argentina | 7 Comments